If you’re here for a mtg proxy USA ordering walkthrough, you’re in the right place. The goal is simple: get playable proxies in your hands for testing without accidentally turning “budget deck testing” into a second job. MTG proxy cards for beginners budget deck testing should feel like printing a deck, not applying for a mortgage.
This guide sticks to the minimum steps: pick a printer, upload a list, review a proof, pick shipping. Then we’ll do a quick cost example, and finish with the part everyone skips until the awkward moment happens: sleeving, storing, and labeling proxies like a responsible adult.
Before you order: decide what “first set of proxies” means
A “first proxy order” usually falls into one of these buckets:
- Test a 60-card deck (often plus a sideboard if you play best-of-three)
- Test a Commander deck (99 cards + your commander)
- Try staples without committing (print 10–30 expensive cards you want to test across multiple decks)
For beginners, the easiest way to order a proxy deck in the USA is usually: print the whole deck once, sleeve it, play five games, then decide what’s real-buy worthy.
The beginner guide MTG proxy ordering USA flow (4 steps)
Step 1: Pick a printer (don’t overthink it, just match your use case)
Your printer choice is mostly a tradeoff between speed, simplicity, price, and how close to “real card feel” you care about.
For a first order, prioritize these questions:
- Where do they ship from? USA shipping is usually faster and more predictable than overseas.
- Do they accept decklists directly? “Paste list, get cards” beats “export CSV, reformat, cry.”
- Do they show proofs before printing? You want a preview step. Always.
- Do they list card stock and finish? If not, you’ll ask (I’ll give you a short script below).
- Do they have a clear turnaround estimate and tracking? “Soon” is not a timeline.
If you’re still comparing providers, use a single “control” card in your brain: would you rather gamble on slightly cheaper pricing, or would you rather the cards show up before your playgroup evolves into a new playgroup?
For merchant comparisons, start here: PrintMTG vs PrintingProxies: which proxy card printer is better?
Step 2: Upload your list (make your decklist boring on purpose)
This is the most important part of “how to buy first set of mtg proxy cards usa” without problems: give the printer a clean list.
Quick checklist:
- Card names are exact (no nicknames, no “that elf that taps for green”)
- Quantities are correct (4-of means 4, Commander means 1-of)
- Commander deck includes the commander (yes, people forget this)
- Sideboard is clearly separated (if you want it printed)
- Tokens are listed separately (optional, but nice)
If your printer supports decklist upload from tools like Moxfield/Archidekt/TappedOut exports, use that. If it doesn’t, paste a plain text list with quantities. The more “normal” your list looks, the less likely you end up with three copies of a card you definitely only wanted one of.
Step 3: Review the proof (be picky now so you don’t pay twice)
Proofing is where beginners either save themselves or learn a valuable lesson about regret.
When you review the proof, look for:
- Wrong card names or wrong versions
- Off-center cropping (frames/borders should look even)
- Text legibility (rules text should be crisp, not fuzzy)
- Too dark / too saturated (especially on black frames)
- Obvious resolution issues (blurry art usually means a bad source image)
Pro tip: review your proof like you’re checking a restaurant bill. You don’t need to be angry, just awake.
Step 4: Pick shipping (your future self wants a buffer)
Shipping is where “beginner guide mtg proxy ordering usa” turns into “why are we playing Uno tonight?”
Basic rules:
- If you need it for a specific date, add buffer. Printing plus shipping plus “life happens.”
- If tracking matters, choose a tracked option. You cannot manifest a package into existence by refreshing the page.
- If you’re ordering around holidays, assume delays. The postal system is not a planeswalker.
Quick cost estimate examples (60-card and Commander)
Prices vary a lot by service, but you can still do a fast sanity-check. Think:
Total = (price per card × number of cards) + shipping + tax (if applicable)
Example A: 60-card deck (basic “first order”)
Let’s say you order a 60-card deck for testing.
Some print-on-demand proxy services price by quantity tiers. For example, one published price structure shows:
- $1.00 per card at 50+ cards
- $5 shipping in the United States (tracked)
So a simple estimate looks like:
- 60 cards × $1.00 = $60
- Shipping ≈ $5
- Estimated total ≈ $65 (plus any tax)
If you also want a 15-card sideboard, that’s 75 cards total:
- 75 × $1.00 = $75
- $5 shipping
- ≈ $80
Example B: Commander deck (99 + commander)
A Commander deck is usually 100 cards total.
Using the same example tier:
- 100 × $1.00 = $100
- $5 shipping
- ≈ $105
That’s the “easy math” version. Bulk printers and larger orders can drop the per-card price, but for beginners, paying a bit more to keep the workflow simple is not the worst idea you’ll ever have. Most of us have purchased far dumber things in the name of “value.”
What to ask a printer when specs aren’t listed (copy/paste friendly)
If a printer doesn’t list details, ask these five questions:
- What card size do you print? (MTG is standard trading card size.)
- What cardstock options do you offer? (Ask specifically if they have a black core option.)
- What finish is standard? (Matte vs gloss.)
- Do you provide a proof before printing? (If not, that’s a choice. Not a good one.)
- What’s the typical turnaround time and shipping time to my ZIP code?
If you’re feeling bold, add: “How do you handle misprints or missing cards?” The answer tells you a lot about how the rest of your order will go.
Storing, sleeving, and labeling: the ethical part that prevents drama later
Sleeving (make them shuffle the same as everything else)
- Use opaque-backed sleeves if your proxy backs differ from real cards.
- If you mix real and proxy cards in one deck, keep sleeves identical and in similar condition.
- Consider double-sleeving if you play a lot. It protects the cards and keeps your deck consistent.
The goal is gameplay consistency, not a deck that feels like it was assembled from five different garage sales.
Storage (heat is the enemy, and your car is a heat machine)
- Store proxies flat in a deck box or card storage box.
- Avoid leaving them in a hot car or near direct sunlight.
- If you live somewhere humid, a small silica packet in the box is a cheap win.
Labeling proxies for casual play (so nobody thinks you’re selling fakes)
This matters for two reasons:
- It keeps casual play honest and comfortable.
- It prevents your proxies from “mysteriously” ending up in someone’s trade binder later.
A simple standard is: clearly mark proxies as proxies, ideally in a way that’s obvious outside the game but doesn’t create marked cards during the game.
One last reality check (tournaments and store rules)
Most “are proxies allowed?” arguments are really two arguments:
- Sanctioned play: rules are strict. Proxies you bring from home generally do not belong there.
- Casual play: it’s about consent. Ask the table or the organizer.
If you’re playing at an LGS, be extra clear. Stores run a mix of casual nights and officially run events, and those are not the same thing, even if they happen in the same room with the same fluorescent lighting.
The tiny first-order checklist (print this in your brain)
- Pick a printer (prefer proofing + clear turnaround)
- Upload a clean list
- Proof it like you care about your own time
- Choose shipping with buffer
- Sleeve consistently
- Label for casual play, not for resale, not for tournaments
That’s the beginner guide mtg proxy ordering usa workflow. You did it. Nothing exploded. Yet.