DPI (dots per inch) is just “how much detail you’re packing into the printed size.” If the file is small and you stretch it to card size, you are not “resizing.” You’re “inventing pixels,” which never ends well.
For cards, 300 DPI is the common baseline because it prints crisp text and clean edges without creating massive files. Go higher if your art is extremely detailed, but don’t expect miracles from a low-res source.
And yes, you can type “300 DPI” into your export settings all day. If the source art is low resolution, it still prints low resolution. You cannot upscale your way into free detail. Your printer will simply produce a high-quality version of the same problem.
MTG proxy cards image DPI and resolution guide: the baseline setup
Before we talk bleed, start with the size you are aiming for.
Standard MTG card size (trim/cut size)
- About 2.5 in x 3.5 in
- About 63 mm x 88 mm
If you want the full breakdown (including why you’ll see 63 x 88 vs 63.5 x 88.9), use this:
MTG Card Size & Dimensions: The Numbers You Actually Need
Pixel sizes at 300 DPI
Pick one approach and stick to it.
Option A: Work in inches (simple math)
- 2.5 in x 3.5 in at 300 DPI
- = 750 px x 1050 px (trim size)
Option B: Work in mm (common print templates)
- 63 mm x 88 mm at 300 DPI
- = about 744 px x 1039 px (trim size)
Both are “right enough” for most workflows because the real world involves rounding and cutting tolerance. The key is what comes next: bleed and safe zone.
Bleed vs safe zone (and why borders betray you)
This is the part that saves your file.
What bleed is
Bleed is extra image past the final cut line. It exists because stacks of cards get cut, and even good cutting has tiny variance.
A very common guideline is:
- Bleed: 1/8 inch (0.125 in) beyond the trim edge on all sides
If you design full-art or backgrounds, that background should extend into the bleed. If you stop artwork exactly at the trim line, the cut can reveal thin white edges. That’s the print equivalent of leaving the house with toothpaste on your shirt.
What the safe zone is
Safe zone means keeping important stuff away from the edges so it doesn’t get clipped or cramped.
A common guideline is:
- Safe margin: keep important text and icons at least 1/8 inch (0.125 in) inside the trim line
So your “live” text area is smaller than the card. That’s not optional if you care about readability.
“mtg proxy cards bleed and safe zone template” in plain numbers
If you’re building your own template at 300 DPI and using the 2.5 in x 3.5 in trim size:
- Trim size: 2.5 x 3.5 in
- Add bleed: +0.125 in on each side
- Full canvas with bleed: 2.75 x 3.75 in
- Pixel size with bleed at 300 DPI: 825 px x 1125 px
Then add guides:
- Trim line at 2.5 x 3.5 inside the canvas
- Safe zone another 0.125 in inside the trim line
If you’re using a printer’s template, follow their template. Your personal math does not outrank the system that will physically cut your cards.
Borders are a trap (most of the time)
Thin, uniform borders make tiny centering shifts look loud. If your border is razor-thin, a 1 mm drift becomes obvious immediately.
If you want borders:
- Make them thicker so variance is less noticeable
- Or use a “soft” border with texture instead of a perfect hard line
- Or skip borders and go full bleed, which is usually more forgiving
If you want the quickest way to avoid border drama: full art that extends into bleed, and keep text safely inside the safe zone.
File formats that hold up
Your goal is “prints clean,” not “uploads fast.”
Best choices
- PDF: great for print, preserves vector text cleanly if you use it
- PNG: good for raster art and sharp edges, but can be big
- TIFF: also solid, more of a print industry format, larger files
Usually fine, with caution
- JPG: only if exported at high quality. Heavy JPG compression can make rules text look smeared or “mosquito noisy.”
If your proxies include lots of small text, JPG artifacts show up fast. The card will feel like it’s trying to hide something. It isn’t. It’s just compressed.
Common image problems and quick fixes
Problem: rules text looks soft or blurry
Most common causes:
- Source image is too low resolution
- You scaled up a small image to card size
- JPG compression artifacts
Quick fixes:
- Start with a higher-res source (best fix)
- Don’t scale up past 100% unless you know what you’re doing
- Export as PNG or high-quality PDF
Problem: art looks darker in print than on screen
Common causes:
- Your monitor is bright, prints are not
- Shadows get “crushed” if the file is too contrasty
Quick fixes:
- Lift shadows slightly before export
- Avoid super-dark “moody” grades unless you test print first
- Don’t rely on your laptop screen as truth. It lies for fun.
Problem: important elements get clipped near the edge
Cause:
- You designed to the trim line with no safe zone
Fix:
- Pull text and icons inward
- Use guides and keep anything critical inside the safe area
Problem: white slivers on the edge after cutting
Cause:
- No bleed, or background does not extend into bleed
Fix:
- Extend background artwork past trim into the bleed area
Preflight checklist (copy this and use it)
Before you upload or send files to print, check:
- My file is set to 300 DPI (or higher if needed)
- My canvas includes bleed (background extends past trim)
- All text and critical icons are inside the safe zone
- I avoided super-thin perfect borders (or made them thick enough)
- I exported in PDF or PNG (or high-quality JPG if i had to)
- I zoomed to 100% and confirmed rules text is readable
- I checked one card with lots of text and one with dark art (these reveal problems fastest)
If you want a straightforward “print it without drama” workflow, this is the ordering path most people follow:
Where to Buy MTG Proxy Cards Online in the USA
FAQ
Is 300 DPI always required?
It’s the safest baseline for trading cards. If you go lower, text and fine lines start breaking down. If you go higher, files get bigger, but you won’t gain quality unless your source art is genuinely high-res.
What if my image is 150 DPI but “looks fine”?
It looks fine on a screen because screens are forgiving. Print is less forgiving. Especially for small text. If you care about readability, treat 300 DPI as the floor.
How much bleed do i actually need?
Most card printing workflows use about 1/8 inch (0.125 in) bleed per side. Always follow the printer’s template if they provide one.
How far from the edge should i keep text?
A common safe zone guideline is at least 1/8 inch inside the trim line. If you’re doing tiny text or tight icons, give yourself more room.
Should i use RGB or CMYK?
Follow the printer’s requirements. Many workflows accept either, but color shifts happen when conversions happen. If you’re obsessive about color, test print first. If you’re obsessive about sanity, also test print first.
Why do my borders look uneven when the cut is “only slightly off”?
Because borders are a visual measuring tool. Even tiny centering variance becomes obvious when you put a perfect rectangle near the edge. Full bleed art is more forgiving.