MTG Proxy Printing Errors: Fix Common Mistakes Before Checkout

Ordering proxies is supposed to be the easy part. You upload a list, you get cards, you shuffle, you pretend you definitely did not just topdeck the exact answer. Reality check: most reprints happen because of boring, preventable stuff. This mtg proxy order proofing checklist is here to stop the classics: cropped frames, unreadable text, “why is everything so dark,” and the ever-popular “wait… that’s not the card I meant.”

Below are the most common problems, why they happen, and quick fixes you can do before checkout so your order doesn’t become a lesson in regret.

The three buckets of pain

Most proxy issues fall into three categories:

• Visual issues: cropping, borders, blurry text, weird color saturation.
• Data issues: wrong card names, duplicates, wrong counts, missing basics, missing tokens.
• Process issues: mixed set versions, mixed frames, foil vs non-foil decisions you made at 1:00 a.m.

If you only have five minutes, skip to the checklist near the end. If you have ten minutes, you can avoid 90% of the “how did this happen” moments.

Visual issues

Proxy cards cropped off edges fix: bleed and safe zone reality

If your proxies come back with clipped names, chopped mana symbols, or the bottom artist line shaved off like it owed someone money, it’s usually a bleed and safe area problem.

What’s happening:

• Printing and cutting is never perfectly centered. Even good equipment has small tolerances.
• If your art or frame runs right to the edge with no bleed, tiny shifts become visible as cropping or uneven borders.

What to check in your proof:

• Card name line and mana cost (top edge gets hit first).
• Set symbol area and rules text box edges.
• Bottom line (artist credit, collector info) if you’re using “realistic” renders.
• Any custom watermark or tiny “PROXY” label near an edge.

Quick fixes before checkout:

• Prefer images/layouts that already include proper bleed.
• Keep important text away from the outer edge (think “safe zone,” not “I can totally fit this in”).
• If you’re using borderless or full-art templates, be extra strict about margins. Borderless looks awesome, right up until the first millimeter matters.

Borders that look uneven (even when your file was “fine”)

Uneven borders are usually caused by one of two things:

• The source images were not all the same aspect ratio and got auto-fit differently.
• You mixed frames (old border, modern border, borderless) and the visual baseline changes from card to card.

What to do:

• Pick a consistent frame style for the bulk of the deck, especially if you care about a “real deck” look.
• In your proof, compare a few cards side-by-side: the border thickness should feel consistent, especially left vs right edges.

Text legibility: the sneaky one

A proxy can look “pretty good” until you try to read it under actual table lighting. If rules text is muddy or fuzzy, the usual causes are:

• Low-resolution images (screenshots, compressed downloads, bad upscales).
• Over-sharpened images that look crisp on screen but print with halos.
• Very dark art behind light text (common on custom designs).

How to check proxy print quality before ordering:

• Zoom your proof to 200% and look at the smallest text. If it looks soft on-screen, it will not magically improve in print.
• Check high-density areas: reminder text, typeline, and anything with thin strokes (like collector numbers or tiny watermark text).
• If you can, do the unglamorous move: print one card at 100% size on plain paper. If you can’t read it there, you won’t love it on cardstock either.

Quick fixes:

• Use higher quality source images whenever possible.
• Avoid placing custom text over busy art.
• If you’re building custom cards, bump font size slightly and increase contrast. Yes, realism is cool. Being able to read the card is cooler.

“Why my proxy cards printed too dark” (and why it keeps happening)

If you’re literally Googling why my proxy cards printed too dark, you’re not alone. Prints often come out darker than what you see on a bright monitor because screens emit light and paper reflects it. Also, your monitor is probably set to “retina-searing showroom mode,” because of course it is.

Common causes:

• Monitor brightness too high, so your file is darker than you think.
• Color space and conversion issues (RGB vs CMYK workflows vary by print process).
• Shadows get “crushed” in print, especially in black-heavy art.

What to check in your proof:

• Dark frames (black, deep navy, heavy vignette art).
• Cards with lots of subtle shadow detail (faces, armor, smoky backgrounds).
• Gray text on dark backgrounds (looks classy, prints like sadness).

Quick fixes before checkout:

• Brighten midtones slightly on very dark cards.
• Reduce saturation a touch if colors look neon.
• If you have access to editing tools, use soft-proofing features to preview how colors may shift in print.
• If the deck is mostly dark art, consider choosing a finish or sleeve choice that helps readability (matte sleeves can reduce glare; bright overhead lights can make dark cards worse).

Data issues

Wrong card names in decklist upload fix: your list is not as “clean” as you think

Imports live and die by text matching. The most common decklist problems are boring:

• Typos (“Ragavan, Nimble Pliifer” is not a creative new card).
• Weird punctuation or special characters.
• Split cards, MDFCs, adventures, and “name formatting” edge cases.
• Nicknames or shorthand (your printer is not your playgroup).

Quick fixes:

• Export directly from your deckbuilder instead of hand-typing.
• Keep each line simple: quantity + exact card name.
• If you’re specifying versions, do it consistently (set code, collector number) instead of sometimes.

Sanity check tip:

• Sort your list alphabetically and scan for “almost duplicates” like:
  • “Sheoldred, the Apocalypse” vs “Sheoldred, The Apocalypse”
  • “Boseiju, Who Endures” vs “Boseiju Who Endures”
    These look harmless. They are not harmless to parsers.

Duplicates and “why do I have two of the same card”

Duplicates usually come from:

• You pasted the mainboard twice by accident.
• You combined two exports and forgot to dedupe.
• The same card appears with two different version tags, so it looks like two separate entries.

Fix it before checkout:

• Confirm the total card count matches the format you’re building for.
• If you want multiple versions for aesthetic reasons, that’s fine, just do it intentionally and double-check quantities.

Wrong counts: Commander brain in a 60-card body (or vice versa)

This is where people get wrecked because they switch formats and forget the basic math.

Examples:

• Commander deck accidentally has two copies of a non-basic card.
• 60-card list is missing a playset because the export removed quantities or you pasted wrong.
• Sideboard got merged into mainboard, so you “mysteriously” have 75 cards.

Quick fixes:

• Confirm your format rules first, then confirm your counts.
• Commander is singleton except basics. Most 60-card formats are up to four copies.

Missing basics, tokens, and the “oh right, this deck needs pieces” problem

Decklists often exclude:

• Basic lands (some exports assume you’ll add them later).
• Tokens and emblems (because they’re not technically in the deck).
• “Side pieces” like dungeons, role tokens, reminder cards, or game aids.

Before checkout:

• Add basics intentionally (and decide if you want matching art, matching frame, full-art, etc.).
• Make a quick token list: what does your deck actually create?
• If you’re printing tokens too, treat them like part of the order, not a “future me problem.” Future you is unreliable.

Process issues (where good intentions go to die)

Mixing set versions: pick a lane (or pick a reason)

A deck can look amazing when it’s consistent, and chaotic when it’s a collage of five eras of frame design.

Common reasons people mix versions:

• They grabbed images from multiple sources.
• The deckbuilder export pulled “default” printings inconsistently.
• They changed their mind mid-list (which is valid) and forgot to standardize.

How to decide:

• If it’s for playtesting, consistency and readability matter more than perfect nostalgia.
• If it’s for a themed deck or cube, choose a frame style and commit.
• If you care about deck aesthetics, it’s worth taking five minutes to standardize key staples and lands.

Foil vs non-foil: decide early, because “surprise foil” is a vibe

Mixing foil and non-foil can be fine, but it should be intentional. People usually regret it when:

• Only a few cards are foil and they stand out in sleeves.
• They didn’t realize the foil flag applied to more cards than intended.
• The finish choice changes how dark art looks.

If you’re not sure:

• Default to non-foil for consistency.
• Use foil for a small, deliberate set (commander, signature cards) if that’s your thing.
• Whatever you pick, make it consistent across the list.

Labeling choices (aka “please don’t make this awkward”)

If you play with new pods or at stores, clear labeling avoids misunderstandings later.

This is not about lecturing anyone. It’s about making sure your proxies stay “game pieces” and never become “accidental drama.”

mtg proxy order proofing checklist (10-minute version)

Use this mtg proxy order proofing checklist right before you click Order:

Decklist sanity

• Count total cards. Does it match your format (100 Commander, 60 constructed, etc.)?
• Scan for duplicates you did not intend.
• Confirm basics are included (or intentionally excluded because you add them separately).
• List tokens and extras you actually want printed.

Name matching

• Check the weird stuff: split cards, MDFCs, adventures, long comma names.
• Remove nicknames, shorthand, and “i know what i meant” entries.
• If you use set codes or collector numbers, use them consistently.

Version and finish decisions

• Standardize frame style where it matters (especially lands and staples).
• Decide foil vs non-foil intentionally, then verify it in the proof.

Visual proof scan

• Zoom in on 5 to 10 cards that represent the deck: darkest art, smallest text, busiest frame.
• Look at the outer edges: name line, mana symbols, rules box, bottom credits.
• If anything is tight to the edge, assume it will be tighter after cutting.

Color reality check

• If the deck is dark, brighten midtones slightly or choose cleaner source images.
• If colors look “radioactive,” reduce saturation a touch.
• If you’re worried about darkness, check a few cards on a different screen (your phone is fine). It’s a quick way to catch “my monitor lied to me.”

If you do all that, you will avoid most reprints, most delays, and most of the emotional spiral that begins with “it looked fine in the preview.”

And yes, this is the part where you feel briefly superior to Past You. Enjoy it.